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Sufix® 832 Advanced Superline® Braid Fishing Line is the most abrasion-resistant, quietest, longest casting, roundest braid on the market. Seven Dyneema® and one Gore carriers and 32 weaves per inch together give a 30% higher palomar knot strength than other braids.
Seven Dyneema and one Gore® carriers
32 weaves per inch
30% higher palomar knot strength than other braids
great fishing line
Simply the best line I've ever used. You will not regret paying the extra money for this line.
September 2, 2012
My favorite braid
This was my 3rd braid purchase and will be my last. I love this stuff.
Came off the spool nice and limp with absolute no memory at all. I bought the 50# for my BC. Casting distance has greatly improved. The reel seems to really perform better than it had on the past.
I was very impressed how strong this stuff is. I tied it to a shark hook and put it in my vise. With a simple improved clinch knot and a thick pair of welding gloves, I pulled and never broke the line or knot. I straightened the hook out.
I hate to compare anything to anything but I tried Power Pro first because of the cost. While I was very impressed with PP this blew me away. 150 yards was enough for 3 reels when backed with mono.
August 13, 2012
best braided line ever
this is an awsome fishing line i use 50lb for top watter and flipping .i have tried other braided lines and this out preforms them all
July 16, 2012
The 832 will work for you.
strong, smooth, supple, sensitive, and dependable. everything you need or want in a fishing line.
June 15, 2012
This line definitely casts better than fireline. Fireline has a smaller diameter to pound test ratio. If you cast a lot, I suggest duracast. Plus it dosent kink or knot up causing a forward lash. That will happen eventually with fireline. And when that happens you have to strip off a lot of line to fix it.
If you were using this line on a spinning reel for shakey heads or small jig fishing would you tie directly to the line our would you use a flourocarbon leader. The water I fish is mainly stained but ranges from basically clear all the way to a mud hole. Thanks.
I fish shakey heads all the time on lake Lanier and I ALWAYS use a fluorocarbon leader. I use a double uni knot or a swivel, whatever works best for you. In my opinion you get much more bites with a leader.
I am not a huge believer in fluro leaders. I think especially in stained water they are not necessary. The real advantage to running a leader though is if you snag up, it will always break at your leader. Saving you a lot of money. It's more expensive to replace your superline. If I am crank baiting with little chance of snagging I always tie direct. That way I never have to worry about a "nick" in my line which creates a weak point.
I too fish a large range clarity . I usually fish with a leader unless its muddy but you really can fish without the leader in heavy stained water too especially if it has a green tint to it . When water is gin clear I switch spools opting for P-Line Floroclear mainline . I prefer the all clear line over the braid leader method when fishing the really clear waters because I will go to 4-6 pound test and really dont care for the loss of strenght that occurs when you join them with a uni to uni knot . So I just use the clear. You will of course experiment but ultimately if you decide on full a time braid, braid/leader system I wouldn't suggest you use less than 8# test leader line . Also it might be good to say that I use 100% Berkley Fluorocarbon line as leader line over the P-Line Floroclear for tying on leaders . The pure fluorocarbon lines all are a little more abrasion resistant than copolyomer lines are . But for mainline the pure fluorocarbon lines abrassion resistance isn't enough of a attribute to give it the nod over a good copolymer line like the P-Line Floroclear. The P-Line is very abrasion resistant in it's own right and will out perform any pure fluorocarbon line out there where casting and handability are considered . One last bit of advise is that when tying fluorocarbon or copolymer lines they are both suseptible to line burn when tightening down the knots . You will need to moisten all your knots with saliva before tightening them . If your line looks burned any at all (stretched or curly) then cut the knot and start all over . If you don't you will be sorry . You will have to experiment with what ever knot you use by tightening a little to this line and then a little to the other until you getter done . I use a Palomar knot and start with the tag end first every time . Oh yea I just want to say this braid line is the best of the best don't look anywhere else . Hope that gives you enough info to start the great ever on going perfect line system search that we all go through for rest of our fishing lives . Good Luck!!
The 6# is = to 2# mono and there is no 8# . But the 10# is = to 4# mono, the 20# is= to 6# mono, the 30# is = to 8# mono, the 40# is = to 10# mono, the 50# is = to 12# mono, the 65 is = to 17# mono, and the 80# is = to 20# mono. It is a little larger dia. than in some of the other lines out there in some of the pounds offered . But let me just say that I wouldn't let that bother you too much because there is no other braid out there that can hold a candlle to the performance of this braid in any way .
For most fishing applications, I use 40# on baitcast reels and 20# on spinning reels. For particular situations, I may go heavier on baitcasters and lighter on spinning gear but 40# and 20# is what works for me 90% of the time.
i personally think it really matter on what kind of baits your throwing and what structure your fishing all depends on that. Generally for all of my cranking i use 20-50lb braid depending on what i have around me as far as structure goes but i think a good all around lb test is 40
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